Thursday, August 11, 2011

Yukon – Alaska Highway


Haines Junction to Watson Lake  - Saturday 6 Aug – Monday 8 Aug. 
Time to reflect.
My schoolboy recollection of North American history is of pioneer settlers with their wagon train full of belongings heading to new lands. Driving along the Alaska Highway I think North Americans still have the urge to visit new land with their “wagon” full of belongings – RV’s!!! Some of these motorhomes are bigger than a London double decker bus and they are driven by a mature couple whose parents were probably on the first wagon train west! Not only do they have a monstrous mobile home but towed behind is the family car (usually bigger than our Jeep), with a Canoe on the roof,  bikes attached and the two family dogs sticking their heads out of the window. But all credit to their sense of adventure, we have come across some of these monsters in camp sites where I have had to use copious amounts of white knuckles and low range 4 wheel drive. We haven’t actually seen inside one of these travelling condos but they must have at least two kitchen sinks, a basement and jacuzzi! What else would you fit into all that space? The positive about  seeing these mobile homes is that many retired Americans can experience the wonders of this amazing continent in absolute comfort.

The other interesting aside we have noted on our travels, is the number of German tourists in Canada. We have met many German couples, of all ages (and the occasional family). Some like us, travelling with a tent and some in rented apartments on wheels. Many are adventurous, with bikes, kayaks and hiking boots in tow, all indicate an appreciation for this wonderful country. The good news is that despite meeting all these Deutschlanders we haven’t mentioned the war once!
Cheers - on the banks of Teslin Lake.
 As you can guess we have travelled a number of miles over the past few days and one ponders on ones travels as the kilometres roll by. However the concentration is quickly refocused as the next pot hole or frost heave jolts Hanneke into the back seat.
The Teslin Bridge - The longest suspension bridge across the Alaska Highway

Ranchview falls.











The beautiful Boya Lake
Who is doing all the work in this Canoe?
We have actually continued to really enjoy exploring Yukon’s southern border. Stops at Teslin Lake, Boya Lake and Watson Lake have all been different and equally enjoyable. We have been able to take a number of hikes to various interesting sites, including a beaver dam, a waterfall and the edge of some huge expanses of water.

We have also seen Beavers, Bears and cubs and Ptarmigan (a ground dwelling bird like a grouse). 

Mummy bear











Baby bear

















A "Ptarmigan" - like a small chicken, but she didn't lay us any eggs.


Now who made this Dam good piece of engineering?










"Not me, I'm just swimming by admiring the view!"
















We have also been amazed by the Forest of Signs, over 70, 000, at Watson Lake. These signs were started in 1942 when the Alcan (Alaskan) highway was being built by the American army engineers and local contractors. Since then travellers have continued to place signs reminding them of home.

A sign of the times!
Talking of home, that is where we are now headed – we will be travelling through Northern British Columbia and onto Alberta, supposedly back in Lloydminster in time to start school!!!

Saturday, August 6, 2011

Alaska/Yukon - Golden memories (3)

Dawson City to Haines Junction - Tuesday August 2 – Friday 5. 
Four days of amazing travelling through some of the most stunning scenery. Snow capped mountains further than the eyes could see; Endangered wildlife (Caribou and trumpeter swans); water in every shape, size and form; dirt, gravelled, potholed, frost heaved and bitumen roads and endless picture postcard views.
40 Mile Caribou
View from the "Top of the World" highway.

I hope the residents enjoy each others company!

We gave a tick (check) to Tok as a place to stop!

Hanneke looking for a Tim Hortons.

One of the many beautiful lake views.

Who couldn't help but admire the view!

Kluane Lake  - The Yukon's longest lake.

More snow capped mountains!

Rain!!!! Now we know why North Americans use motorhomes when they go camping.
And another reason!

And even more snow capped mountains.

And the sun finally sets - 11.30 pm.

And to top it all off we saw our first Moose. A mother and calf at the side of the road. Unfortunately the noise of our hole riddled muffler scared these huge animals so Mum went back for baby and took her a safer route.
Why did the Moose cross the road?

Yukon/Alaska - Golden Memories (2)


Dawson City - Monday August 1
On the way to hopefully sunny Dawson City.
A small, old wooden building built in 1898 selling Latte’s and providing WiFi  is typical of Dawson City. Many of the buildings in town were built during the Klondike goldrush  era – some have been restored, some are looking their age. The town’s character is further enhanced by the board walks and dusty/muddy roads.

A place for sinners!
and a place for redemption

Features of our time in Dawson we particularly enjoyed were the views from the Bluff and Midnight Dome, the humongous Dredge No. 4 and the free ferry ride from our camp site to the town.
Dawson City and the Yukon River.

Engineer Hanneke learning how to drive Dredge No. 4

Hanneke Driving Dredge No. 4
Dredge No. 4 looking for gold!












A free ferry ride - guess how many times we crossed the Yukon?


















 A somewhat poignant  reminder of the past was the ‘Paddle Wheel graveyard’ we found near our camp site. Seven of the former hard working sternwheelers were lying wrecked in the bush along the Yukon River. All built around 1890’s, these neglected,  abandoned, rotting  workhorses proved a stark reminder of the remoteness, harshness but glorious past of the area.


Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Alaska/Yukon - Golden memories 1.

Skagway to Whitehorse Thursday 28 July - Sunday 31 July.
Just when we thought it couldn't get any better we hit Alaska and the Yukon.
Skagway is a gold rush style tourist town with many of the original buildings from the 1890's, including the boardwalk. The town is as busy with tourists today as it was over a 100 years ago with stampeders. We avoided the crowds by camping out at Dyea flats, a picturesque estuary ideal for encountering wildlife.Whilst we were there we were fortunate to see the pink salmon spawning. We also watched a Grizzly bear doing what Grizzly bears do, near the creek, and Bald Eagles galore.
Skagway taxis

Cruise ship coming down the main street of Skagway

Starting the trail to gold.

The only remains of a town of 10000 gold seekers!

Dinner

Awaiting the right moment to make baby salmon.

How the other half travel.

The drive from Skegway to Carcross, on the South Klondike highway was spectacular. The mountain passes and landscape were breathtaking with a mixture of alpine vegetation, crystal clear lakes and temperate rainforest. Apart from a scare with a smokey car, the drive to Whitehorse is one of the many highlights of the trip so far.
Awesome highway

looking back to Alaska

We even found a beach.

Emerald Lake

Whitehorse, capital of the Yukon, was another unexpected highlight - a blend of old and new. We were able to deal with domestic duties, hike a historical canyon, viewed the world's largest fishladder, took a picturesque walk around the river and learnt about Beringia during the last ice-age.
Miles Canyon

OK - Where are the shops!

Mike Hike.

Typical Whitehorse skyscrapers

Hanneke demonstrating her dental skills.

The world's biggest fish ladder

Who would want to be a Salmon?









Camping in Canada has been an enjoyable experience so far. Long days, great tent sites and an occasional bear wandering past your tent.